DEYI Studio and the Dong Women of Guizhou: Textiles as Living Memory
DEYI mission is to preserve and reinvent the textile heritage of China’s indigenous communities, specifically the Dong and Miao peoples of Guizhou, through contemporary design, slow fashion, and immersive experiences. Since the Miao and Dong peoples have no written language, their history, stories, and identity are encoded in textile patterns — embroidery, batik, and weaving. The diamond motif is the most iconic, symbolising protection, balance, and harmony with nature.
DEYI explicitly positions itself against cultural appropriation, emphasising fair wages, long-term collaboration, and empowering artisans to drive their own economic development. Their philosophy draws from the Chinese concept of 天人合一 (tiānrén héyī) — the harmony between humans and nature. DEYI runs a textile cooperative in Rongjiang County, Guizhou, involving 30+ Dong women artisans. Their workshop is housed in a traditional Dong wooden home in the mountains — a space for textile production, ethnographic research, and creative residencies.
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Can you tell us about your journey into craftsmanship, how did you first learn your skills?
In 2012, I decided I didn’t want to continue working away from home, so I returned to my native village to start my own business and opened an online shop. I began selling ethnic handmade products, using our Dong handwoven fabrics. That’s when I started to truly learn and understand the craft of weaving. My mother and my grandaunt taught me, guiding me step by step through every stage of the process. During production, the elder women always showed deep respect for the spirits. I remember one particular moment: when preparing the warp threads, a process that requires two or three women working together, people would sometimes chat too much and become distracted. The elders would say that if we didn’t stay focused and spoke carelessly, the spirits would cause problems in the process — what could be finished in one day would take three days instead. So the older weavers always reminded us to work with concentration and not speak unnecessarily.
What does being a Dong woman artisan mean to you personally? What stories, traditions, or symbols are woven into your work?
Being a Dong woman artisan means love and devotion to me. It is something I truly cherish and feel committed to preserving and sharing. In the making of traditional Dong ceremonial clothing, the process—from weaving to plant dyeing—is complex and requires many steps. A single outfit carries within it the diligence and wisdom of Dong women. When we wear these garments during ceremonies, they symbolize unity among our people and a harmonious coexistence with nature.
How do you feel your craft connects you to your ancestors or community?
Practicing this craft is deeply meaningful—it allows women in the village to earn an income through their skills. I feel the blessings of our ancestors and the support of the village elders. This connection with the ancestors gives me both confidence and a strong sense of responsibility. It encourages me to continue this work, to share our textiles with the world, and to pass on the cultural heritage of the Dong people.
What does “women supporting women” look like in your community?
In the early stages of weaving, for example, if I need to produce 200 meters of fabric, I rely on the help of three to four women from the village. Together we complete processes such as arranging the warp, combing the threads, threading the loom, and setting it up. We help each other in turns— “today I help you, and in a few days you help me”. This mutual support strengthens friendship and solidarity among the women, while also allowing us to exchange knowledge and improve our weaving techniques together.
What does being part of a collective like DEYI mean to you? How has it brought you a sense of independence or empowerment and feel your voice or identity is represented through this collaboration?
Being part of the DEYI collaboration means that our culture is respected and that our craftsmanship is supported and preserved. This kind of collaboration gives our community more confidence. It allows us to share our authentic work as artisans, and through the textiles we create, our craft can reach the world. People can see the true heritage of our weaving traditions and the reality of our lives as artisans.
What would you like people around the world to understand about Dong women artisans?
Textiles are a universal language—they express emotions. When we weave, we do it with our whole heart. Through the fabric—its texture, its feel—you can sense the care and warmth of the person who made it.
Photos courtesy of DEYI
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